The next
time we visited Chattanooga found us at the Tennessee Aquarium shortly after it
opened. Hailed as the largest fresh water aquarium in the nation in 1992, it attracted
droves of tourists. And, to think, it took a bunch of students to realize its
potential.
Yes, eager,
forward-thinking, idealistic college students. From the University of Tennessee
at Knoxville, the architectural students can claim the pride of ownership of
the idea for the aquarium. Their well-conceived design, along with proposals
from a publicly-appointed citizens’ group, formed the “Tennessee Riverpark Master
Plan.” The twenty-year plan called for $750 million of mixed-use development,
enhancement, and conservation along 22 miles of the Tennessee River corridor
through Chattanooga.
It just
goes to show you that when people band together for a common good, positive things
can happen.
The
transformation began in 1984. Between my first and second visits to
Chattanooga, revitalization had dug in its heels. Once labeled as “the dirtiest
city in America” during a 1969 CBS newscast by Walter Cronkite, Chattanooga was
no longer the recession-plagued industrial city it once was. In fact, it positively
shined. Following the building of the Aquarium came the Chattanooga Visitors Center, the Creative
Discovery Museum, the IMAX 3D Theater, and a remarkable pedestrian-only bridge,
the renovated Walnut Street Bridge. Across the river, Coolidge Park, featuring
a vintage carousel, opened, spawning increased retail activity. “And on the
south end of town, the convention center was expanded a block away from a new
conference center and hotel. Private enterprise was rekindled, too, with at
least a hundred eateries, shops and other businesses sprouting up to support the
influx of downtown visitors” (from a Tennessee Aquarium Press Kit).
Through the nineties, Chattanooga was
featured in U.S. News and World Report
and Parade. It was found to be one of
the most enlightened cities in America (Utne
Reader), one of the top 10 family vacation destinations (Family Fun), one of the world’s great cities
(NPR’s Morning Edition), one of the
country’s best places to live, work and play (Outside), and one of America’s most walkable cities (Walking).
From
2001-2007, my husband and I often stopped in Chattanooga on our way to and from
Clemson University. Always looking for a good place to eat, we were never
disappointed. Thanks to my husband’s generous Christmas present to me, we were
able to take advantage this past weekend to once again sample all Chattanooga
has to offer.
Steve
made a reservation at the Mayor’s Mansion Inn. Built in 1889, the historical
house did not disappoint. The room was lovely, the service fantastic, and the breakfasts
superb: fruit cup, 3-cheese quiche, asparagus, potato medallions, and a blond
brownie one day; ricotta cake, stuffed French toast, bacon, and
honeyed-cinnamon fruit the next. Oh, my. I’m nearly drooling just thinking
about it.
On
Friday evening, we first went to the Big River Restaurant. Since the line was
too long, we decided to make reservations for the next evening and went on to
eat at Sticky Fingers. Having eaten there before, we knew what to expect:
scrumptious BBQ and lots of it. (For just a couple of dollars more, we decided
to share a three-meat platter: pork, chicken, and an introduction to beef brisket. Delightful!)
The next day, we took a walk through UTC and witnessed lots of construction but very few students at 9:00 a.m. Afterwards, we visited the Chickamauga Battlefield, stopping at the Visitor’s Center to see the museum and movie and then taking a driving tour through the battlegrounds. (In case you don’t know, Chattanooga, TN and Chickamauga, GA are places rich in Civil War history.) We ate lunch at Bluewater Grille and found the restaurant to have the best fish tacos ever, and the lobster bisque isn’t shabby, either! Since we had to work off breakfast and lunch, we then took the Incline up to Lookout Mountain and walked there for the next hour and a half, gawking at the huge mansions with their breath-taking views.
That
evening found us at the Big River Restaurant. The food there was also delish (but,
to my ears, the music a tad loud, making conversation difficult). Steve had
gotten tickets for A Doll’s House by
Henrik Ibsen (adapted by a local playwright) so we went to the Chattanooga
Theatre Centre across the river. (Beware adaptations by local playwrights. Ack!
Poor Ibsen must have been rolling in his grave.
But, unlike most plays, this one got us to talking about it quite a bit—mostly
with lead-ins, like “Can you believe . . . ?” and “What was he thinking when .
. . ?” Unlike the vicious critic within me, the local reviewer was exceedingly kind.)
After
the astounding breakfast the next day, we set out on foot for the Riverwalk.
First walking away from downtown, we covered an hour in one direction. The
lovely path with several gazebos and benches took us past the rowing house (with which we were
familiar as our son was a member of the Rocket City Rowers). When we
eventually turned around, we walked to downtown where we, once again, found a
great restaurant, 212 Market Street. It was unfortunate, indeed, that our
waiter was an older gentleman who didn’t quite know how to wait tables; instead
of saying “Excuse me,” he poked my husband with his plate of food when Steve didn’t
immediately become aware of his presence.
With
protesting feet but fulfilled appetites, we began our return home to pick up
the car.
What a
lovely way to spend a weekend.